Where to Learn More About Vintage & Estate Jewelry (Part 2)

 

 

 

 

For individuals just starting out in the jewelry industry, learning the tricks of the trade appropriate to your niche is often the hardest part. Finding this niche (such as your favorite time period, or a particular jewelry type you wish to specialize in) can be particularly difficult. There is a wealth of information available online nowadays, with many websites claiming to be experts on vintage jewelry and estate jewelry. Notwithstanding, the most important thing for nascent jewelry purveyors is the accumulation of high quality information. Readers of this article will learn how to maximize their time by visiting high-quality, vetted sites that meet the industry standard. In this way, young gemologists, collectors, and lovers of period jewelry can learn from the best - and one day be the best!

National Association of Jewelry Appraisers

It is said that in order to become the best, one must surround oneself with the best. Members of the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers are experts in their field. The association was founded in 1981 on the premise that gem and jewelry appraising was an area that needed professional representation. Appraising jewelry is important especially if one is interested in pursuing a career in jewelry sales, manufacturing, collecting, or trade. This goes double for fine estate jewelry, where fabrications abound and a keen eye is needed. Choose this association if you can hang with an older, experienced crowd and are prepared to travel to their conferences. We believe this association can help a young individual secure a foothold in the jewelry industry by connecting him or her to other like-minded professionals.

The American Society of Jewelry Historians

History buffs look no further! The American Society of Jewelry Historians takes pride in the rich history antique jewelry has to offer. They meld the past with the modern, keeping its visitors up to date with content in the form of scholarly articles, lectures, seminars, and opportunities to network with other jewelry professionals and collectors. The ASJH even hosts auctions! Click here for a list of jewelry related exhibitions and upcoming events, and learn how vintage jewelry is bought, sold, and treasured in the modern era.

Revere Academy

If you’re the type of learner that likes to jump right in and work with their hands, the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts may be right for you. Less of an online resource and more of a workshop, the Revere Academy, established by Alan Revere in 1979, the San Francisco-based jewelry school has master jewelers and experts eager to share their passion with upcoming students. No matter your skill level, the academy has classes on a wide variety of topics including goldsmithing, jewelry repair, jewelry design and more. Students can obtain diplomas and become certified in a wide variety of classes and programs.

A Brief History of Gold (Part 2)

 

Welcome to part 2. For part 1 click here; for part 3 click here.

Gold is a ductile material with an unmistakable texture. It can be hammered into paper-thin layers and the material will not shatter. For thousands of years artisans molded this precious material into various shapes, working it into jewelry and sculptures.

Experts in the field of geology, mineralogy, and mining estimate that more than 100,000 tons of gold have been taken from the earth during all of the planet’s history. Even though the prized material can be found in rivers, seas, and on land, in many places of the earth, it is not easily extracted. As the backbreaking work of the California Gold Rush miners can attest, opening a mine or sifting for gold is a time-intensive and costly venture; several tons of ore are required to produce just one ounce of the metal.

Pure gold’s brilliance is indubitable, and has driven men across oceans and dangerous terrain to obtain it. In both alchemy, astrology, and western mythology, gold is the physical symbol for the divine radiance of the heavenly sun. The Aztecs believed that gold was delivered down to heaven by the gods. Famous tales by Spanish conquistadors tell of pre-Columbian empires draped in gold. Today, little of this gold from the Incan, Aztec, and Mayan civilization survives. The bits of it that are left can be found in museums, or private antique jewelry or estate jewelry collections.

No one knows exactly how gold is formed on earth. One theory popular in geological circles claims all the gold currently on earth came about as a result of a meteor’s impact. A 2011 paper in Nature, a weekly journal of science, claims a meteor bombardment more than four billion years ago brought 20 billion tons of gold and other valuable metals to our planet. In short, all the gold unearthed throughout man’s history on earth - from the first nugget unearthed by cavemen to the California gold rush of the 1800’s, came from space. If the ancient Aztecs are to be believed, perhaps gold truly did come from a celestial place. It’s no surprise then that the material continues to hold us in its grasp.

Top 4 Tools for Jewelers and Gemologists

 

Tweezers and Gem Holders

Diamonds are forever but not when you can’t grip them. Tweezers are number one on the list because you need to be able to maneuver diamonds and gemstones as you work with them. These are not the tweezers you use to pluck your eyebrows with, although the concept is the same. Instead, these tweezers have a fine tip with a special satin finish on the tips (and inner grip) so as to not scratch the gemstone.

Loupe or Magnifier

You’ll need a 10X or better pocket magnifier to check the quality of gemstones up close. A jeweler specializing in fine estate jewelry and antique jewelry must have a loupe free of distortions. He or she needs to carefully observe the craftsmanship that went into a certain piece in order to determine its year of manufacture and other historic qualities. Look for a loupe that slides into a protective cover - that way the surface won’t be scratched due to wear.

Diamond Scales

These scales are extremely accurate and give the precise weight of the items placed upon them, be they gold or precious stones. It helps to have a scale with multiple weighing units (i.e. grams, carats, troy ounce, pennyweight, pound and ounce) in order to be able to speak to international clients and use their preferred system of measurement. Look for a scale with a low profile and portable compact size. You may need to take it as you go on an adventure for gemstones.

Refractometer

Critical in gem identification, a refractometer is used to give you a clear focus on the refractivity of light within a diamond or clear gemstone It determines the refractive index of a clean, flat, well polished gemstone facet. A good refractometer will give results that are both accurate and precise so be sure to check the market for the most reputable brands.

How to Select the Right Antique Jewelry

 

If you are fond of antique jewelry, then you should know the best ways of selecting the right, reputable dealer. There are plenty of stores that claim to sell various antique items. You may find some jewelry pieces there as well. However, it must be mentioned that not all of them are trustworthy and authentic. This is why you should be very careful when purchasing antique jewelry. Here are some things to look for in your next antique jewelry dealer. Keep these tips in mind when you are shopping around.

Choose Based on Reputation

How long have they been in business? Are they accredited by the Better Business Bureau? What is their reputation online? What is their reputation in the local community?

These are all fair and valid questions to ask before you journey on your quest to find antique jewelry. You need to be sure about choosing a reputable store so that you know the products you are paying for are genuine and not fake. Always ask yourself these questions so you’ll have no doubt as to the authenticity of the jewelry you are buying.

Choose Based on Expertise

When you’re buying antique or vintage jewelry from a brick and mortar store, ask how many of the staff members are certified gemologists. You want to make sure that the people selling you your jewelry have not been duped themselves. The more expertise they have in the jewelry industry, the more credible their statements will be.

Pro Tip: Did you know that a piece of jewelry can only be called vintage if it is older than 30 years? Similarly, when a piece crosses the 100 year mark, only then can it receive the mark of an antique item.

Selecting a store with knowledgeable staff members is crucial to getting a good deal on a piece of jewelry. If the staff members do not know their craft, then you should take your business elsewhere.

Choose Based on Environmental Impact

Also question the manager about the environmental impact of the jewelry they sell. Do their practices have any environmental or political repercussions? Always check so that you feel safe in buying your new piece of antique jewelry with a clean conscience.